River Road (FM 170) is one of the most awe-inspiring scenic drives in Texas—stretching through the rugged desert landscapes of the Big Bend Region along the Rio Grande. Connecting the towns of Presidio and Lajitas, this twisting, two-lane ribbon of pavement hugs the southernmost edge of the state, offering breathtaking overlooks, sharp switchbacks, and uninterrupted views of Mexico just across the river.
Often described as the most beautiful drive in Texas, River Road is ideal for photographers, adventurers, and solitude seekers craving raw, untamed beauty. With every bend, you’ll witness mesas, canyons, and rocky outcrops—alongside ghost towns, hidden trails, and one of the darkest night skies in North America. It’s a place where silence stretches for miles, where desert sunrises and starlit nights feel like cinematic moments—and where the road itself becomes the destination.
Why Visit River Road (FM 170)?
River Road (FM 170) is not just one of Texas’s most scenic drives—it’s one of the most unforgettable routes in the entire Southwest. Often overshadowed by the nearby Big Bend National Park, this 67-mile stretch between Lajitas and Presidio offers a more rugged, remote, and soul-stirring experience. With the Rio Grande twisting alongside, jagged cliffs towering above, and virtually no traffic in sight, FM 170 is a rare slice of untouched wilderness that rewards those who seek the road less traveled.
The drive delivers visual drama and emotional stillness in equal measure. Whether you’re descending the steep curves of Big Hill, pausing to admire desert blooms, or simply pulling over to feel the silence, River Road brings out the kind of wonder that can’t be found in cities or even crowded parks. It’s not a loop—it’s a journey, one that suits road trippers, landscape photographers, bikers, and off-the-grid wanderers.
The best time to visit is between October and April, when temperatures are pleasant and visibility is crisp. In this window, golden sunsets paint the cliffs, and early morning drives are met with long, lonely shadows stretching across the canyon floor. For those craving a road that feels like an escape into cinematic wildness—FM 170 is it.
Top Things to Do Along River Road (FM 170)
1. Drive the River Road Scenic Route Between Lajitas and Presidio
The main attraction is the drive itself—67 miles of winding blacktop that climbs, dips, and curves along the Rio Grande’s edge. From canyon walls to desert plains, this road is about immersion. Expect dramatic elevation changes, hairpin turns, and sudden vistas that open up like movie scenes.
Reason to Visit: Experience one of the most scenic and least-traveled roads in Texas
Entry Fee: Free
Best Time to Visit: Morning for low light and solitude; late afternoon for golden-hour views
For More Info: Visit Website
2. Stop at Big Hill Overlook for Rio Grande Views
Big Hill is the highest point along FM 170, and its roadside overlook offers a stunning panorama of the Rio Grande snaking below, with Mexico just across the canyon. It’s a popular photo stop—and the view is jaw-dropping whether you catch it at sunrise, mid-morning, or dusk.
Reason to Visit: One of the most iconic overlook views in West Texas
Entry Fee: Free
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or sunset for golden light and shadows
For More Info: Visit Website
3. Visit Fort Leaton State Historic Site
Located just outside Presidio, Fort Leaton is a massive adobe trading post from the 1800s that now serves as a visitor center for Big Bend Ranch State Park. Tour the preserved fort, explore exhibits, and pick up maps before heading into the remote park trails.
Reason to Visit: Gateway to Big Bend Ranch SP + rich frontier history
Entry Fee: $5 per person
Best Time to Visit: Midday for shaded courtyard exploration
For More Info: Visit Website
4. Explore Big Bend Ranch State Park Trails
Many of the best hikes in Big Bend Ranch State Park start along FM 170. Trailheads like Closed Canyon, Hoodoos Trail, and Fresno Canyon offer short walks through narrow slot canyons, hoodoo rock formations, and rugged desert terrain—all just steps from the road.
Reason to Visit: Quick-access desert hikes with maximum scenery
Entry Fee: $5 per person (valid at all Big Bend Ranch SP areas)
Best Time to Visit: Early morning to avoid heat and full sun exposure
For More Info: Visit Website
5. Catch Sunset or Stargaze at Roadside Pull-Offs
This part of Texas boasts some of the darkest skies in North America. Pull over at any safe shoulder or trailhead to watch the sun dip behind the Chisos Mountains, then stay for a star show. On moonless nights, the Milky Way is easily visible to the naked eye.
Reason to Visit: World-class stargazing and desert sunsets
Entry Fee: Free
Best Time to Visit: One hour before and after sunset; check moon phases
For More Info: Visit Website
Best Time to Visit
River Road (FM 170) is best experienced when the weather is cool, the skies are clear, and the desert sun isn’t overwhelming. The ideal window is October through April, when conditions are most favorable for both driving and hiking. This stretch of the Big Bend Region is known for extreme temperatures and dramatic light shifts—making seasonal timing essential to your trip’s success.
Fall (October–November)
This is one of the best times to drive FM 170. Daytime temperatures are comfortable (60s–80s°F), and the air is crisp and clear. The desert begins to glow with warm golden tones, and trail conditions are excellent. This season offers dramatic sunsets and cool nights—perfect for camping or stargazing.
Winter (December–February)
Winters are cool and quiet, with highs in the 50s–60s°F and chilly desert nights. You’ll find the fewest crowds during this time, but be prepared for occasional frost or wind at high elevations. It’s ideal for hiking and photography without the heat.
Spring (March–April)
Spring brings mild temperatures and—if the rains come—desert wildflowers along the road and canyons. Expect 70s–80s°F during the day, with low humidity and strong sunshine. It’s a very popular season for both Big Bend parks, so plan lodging early.
Summer (May–September)
This is the least recommended season. Daytime highs often exceed 100°F, and sun exposure is intense. Monsoon season (July–September) can bring flash floods to low-lying areas. If you must visit in summer, drive early in the day and avoid hiking after 10:00 AM.
Best Time of Day
Sunrise: Ideal for soft desert light and empty roads
Golden Hour (before sunset): Best for overlook photos, especially at Big Hill
After Dark: FM 170 offers world-class stargazing—bring a telescope or just lay back
Directions and Parking Info
River Road (FM 170) stretches approximately 67 miles between Presidio and Lajitas, hugging the Rio Grande and weaving through some of the most remote and scenic terrain in Texas. While the road itself is paved and well-maintained, services are extremely limited—so proper planning is crucial.
How to Access FM 170
From Alpine
Take TX-118 South to Study Butte and turn right on FM 170 toward Terlingua and Lajitas (~90 minutes).
Distance: 78 miles / 1.5 hours
From Marfa
Head south on US-67 to Presidio, then continue east on FM 170. This direction gives you Big Hill’s dramatic descent into the Rio Grande valley.
Distance: 60 miles / 1 hour
From Big Bend National Park (Panther Junction)
Exit the park via TX-118 to Study Butte, then follow FM 170 west through Terlingua and Lajitas.
Distance: 45 miles / 1 hour
Recommended Route
Start in Presidio and drive east toward Lajitas. This direction gives you sweeping downhill views from Big Hill and better lighting in the afternoon.
Parking Information
Big Hill Overlook: Designated pull-off with room for several cars. Do not block the road—visibility is limited on curves.
Hoodoos Trail & Closed Canyon Trail: Marked parking areas maintained by Big Bend Ranch State Park. Space is limited but accessible for standard vehicles.
Fort Leaton: Full visitor lot with restroom facilities, maps, and shaded areas
Roadside Pull-Offs: Several informal gravel shoulders—use extreme caution when pulling over on curves or grades
No RV turnouts on steep stretches—large vehicles must use designated areas only
Fuel & Services
No gas stations along FM 170
Nearest fuel:
Presidio (multiple stations)
Lajitas General Store (limited fuel available)
Terlingua (10 miles east of Lajitas)
Tip: Always fill up in Presidio or Terlingua before attempting the full drive.
Entry Fees, Passes & Reservations
Driving River Road (FM 170) itself is completely free of charge—no tolls, reservations, or permits are required to enjoy the full scenic stretch between Presidio and Lajitas. However, a few state-managed sites and trails along the route do require entry fees or passes, especially if you plan to explore Big Bend Ranch State Park.
FM 170 Scenic Drive
Entry Fee: Free
Reservations: Not required
Hours: Open 24/7
Note: Roadside stops and scenic overlooks are informal and first-come, first-served
Big Bend Ranch State Park (Hikes & Trailheads)
Entry Fee: $5 per person, per day
Accepted Passes:
Texas State Parks Pass
Children 12 and under: Free
Reservations:
Not required for day use, but recommended for backcountry camping
Purchase permits at Fort Leaton or Barton Warnock Visitor Centers
For More Info: Visit Website
Fort Leaton State Historic Site
Entry Fee: $5 per person (includes visitor center access)
Hours: Daily, 8:00 AM – 4:30 PM
Purpose: Visitor center for western Big Bend Ranch State Park; great first stop for maps, permits, and history
For More Info: Visit Website
Barton Warnock Visitor Center (Lajitas)
Entry Fee: Included with state park permit
Hours: Daily, 8:00 AM – 4:30 PM
Services: Permits, maps, restrooms, interpretive exhibits
Tip: Ideal stop for those entering Big Bend Ranch SP from the east
Additional Notes
No reservations or permits needed for casual scenic driving or photo stops
Camping and backcountry access inside Big Bend Ranch State Park require permits
Fort Leaton and Barton Warnock both accept card and cash; limited Wi-Fi
Where to Stay Nearby
River Road (FM 170) stretches through a remote part of the Big Bend Region, but it’s bookended by unique and memorable lodging options that reflect the area’s wild spirit and rugged charm. From upscale resorts to desert glamping and historic ghost town rentals, here are top places to stay within reach of the route.
1. Lajitas Golf Resort – Upscale desert resort at the edge of the wild
Located at the eastern end of FM 170, Lajitas Golf Resort offers luxury lodging in a setting that blends Old West aesthetics with modern comfort. The property features a championship golf course, zip lines, spa services, an equestrian center, and views of the Chisos Mountains and Rio Grande. Ideal for travelers who want adventure by day and resort-style comfort at night.
Address: 21701 FM 170, Lajitas, TX 79852
Phone: 432-424-5000
Price Range: $250–$450 per night
Rating: 4.6 stars
Parking: Free guest parking
For More Info: Visit Website
2. El Cosmico – Iconic glamping in Marfa (nearby base for explorers)
If you’re approaching from the north or planning to explore Marfa before or after your River Road adventure, El Cosmico offers one of Texas’s most creative stays. Choose from vintage trailers, safari tents, teepees, or yurts under the West Texas stars. It’s stylish, artsy, and deeply connected to Marfa’s free-spirited vibe.
Address: 802 S Highland Ave, Marfa, TX 79843
Phone: 432-729-1950
Price Range: $130–$300 per night
Rating: 4.7 stars
Parking: Free on-site
For More Info: Visit Website
3. Terlingua Ghost Town Rentals – Rustic stays with desert views
Terlingua sits just east of Lajitas and offers casita rentals, adobe homes, and cabins perched on the edge of the Chihuahuan Desert. Many accommodations here feature fire pits, panoramic views, and minimal light pollution, making them ideal for sunset watching and stargazing. It’s the perfect base if you want something raw, rustic, and right in the desert.
Address: Various rentals throughout Terlingua, TX 79852
Phone: Varies by host (Airbnb, local inns, or direct booking)
Price Range: $90–$200 per night
Rating: 4.5–4.9 stars
Parking: On-site, often with 4×4 access
For More Info: Visit Website
Food & Drinks Nearby
While River Road (FM 170) itself is remote and without services, both Terlingua and Presidio offer rewarding food stops before or after your drive. Expect a mix of Tex-Mex, barbecue, coffee, and classic desert roadhouse vibes—perfect fuel for scenic exploration.
1. Starlight Theatre – Legendary Terlingua saloon with a view
Set in the heart of the Terlingua Ghost Town, Starlight Theatre is a bucket-list destination for Big Bend travelers. Originally built as a movie theater in the 1930s, it now serves up hearty Texas fare—burgers, enchiladas, and grilled quail—paired with live music and a view of the desert sunset. Expect a casual, friendly atmosphere and long wait times on weekends.
Address: 631 Ivey Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852
Hours: Daily, 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Pricing: $15–$30 per entrée
Distance from Lajitas: 10 miles / 15 minutes
For More Info: Visit Website
2. DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ – Local barbecue near Presidio
Tucked just off FM 170 near Presidio, DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ serves classic West Texas barbecue in a laid-back setting with picnic tables and mountain views. Don’t miss their brisket, ribs, or loaded baked potatoes. It’s one of the few solid food options on the western end of the route.
Address: 1600 Erma Ave, Presidio, TX 79845
Hours: Thursday–Sunday, 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Pricing: $10–$20 per meal
Distance from Big Hill: 10 miles / 15 minutes
For More Info: Visit Website
3. Espresso…Y Poco Mas – Laid-back coffee + bites in Terlingua
This cozy outdoor café is perfect for breakfast or a pre-drive coffee stop. Located in the Terlingua Ghost Town, Espresso…Y Poco Mas offers lattes, smoothies, tacos, and baked goods with shaded patio seating and views of the Chisos Mountains.
Address: 100 Ivey Rd, Terlingua, TX 79852
Hours: Daily, 7:30 AM – 2:00 PM
Pricing: $6–$15 per item
Distance from Lajitas: 10 miles / 15 minutes
For More Info: Visit Website
Local Tips for Visiting
Fill up on gas before you start—there are no fuel stations along FM 170. The only reliable fill-ups are in Presidio, Terlingua, and Lajitas.
Download offline maps ahead of time—there is no cell service for most of the drive, including Big Bend Ranch State Park trailheads.
Start early in the day to avoid heat and maximize daylight, especially if you’re stopping to hike.
Bring plenty of water, snacks, and sun protection—there are no services, vending machines, or shade shelters along the road.
Drive cautiously—FM 170 includes steep grades, blind curves, narrow shoulders, and sections with sudden drop-offs.
Watch for wildlife—you may spot javelinas, deer, roadrunners, or even longhorns crossing the road.
Use pull-offs wisely—there are a few scenic turnouts, but shoulders can be narrow or rocky; only stop where it’s safe and fully off the road.
Check weather reports before hiking or camping—flash flooding can occur in canyons and washes, especially during monsoon season.
Carry cash or small bills if visiting Fort Leaton or making quick stops at local eateries with limited card service.
Expect temperature swings—mornings can be cool, but afternoon sun can be intense even in winter.
What Else Is Nearby?
The River Road (FM 170) drive places you within easy reach of some of the most breathtaking and culturally rich destinations in all of West Texas. If you’re extending your journey or want to turn your scenic drive into a full desert road trip, these nearby stops are worth exploring.
1. Big Bend National Park
One of the crown jewels of the National Park system, Big Bend National Park features towering canyons, desert mountains, and the mighty Rio Grande winding through deep gorges. Hike Santa Elena Canyon, soak in Boquillas Hot Springs, or drive the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive for unparalleled natural beauty.
Distance: 20 miles / 30 minutes from Terlingua (via TX-118)
Why Visit: National park scale scenery and world-class hiking just next door
For More Info: Visit Website
2. Chinati Hot Springs
Hidden in the Chinati Mountains near the Rio Grande, this remote desert oasis offers rustic cabins and natural mineral soaking pools. It’s an off-grid retreat ideal for recovery after hiking or driving FM 170. Reservations are required and 4WD is strongly recommended.
Distance: 40 miles / 1.5 hours from Presidio (via rough roads)
Why Visit: Tranquil soaking, stargazing, and desert solitude
For More Info: Visit Website
3. Terlingua Ghost Town
A former mercury mining hub turned artsy desert village, Terlingua Ghost Town is full of quirky character. Explore the ruins, sip coffee at La Posada Milagro, or enjoy music at Starlight Theatre while watching the sunset fade over the Chisos Mountains.
Distance: 10 miles / 15 minutes from Lajitas
Why Visit: Culture, art, food, and classic West Texas weirdness
For More Info: Visit Website
Final Thoughts on Visiting River Road (FM 170)
Driving River Road (FM 170) is like stepping into a living postcard of West Texas—one defined not by crowds or commerce, but by raw beauty, silence, and sweeping cinematic scale. With the Rio Grande flowing beside you, sheer canyon walls above, and sky stretching in every direction, every mile of this route feels like an escape into something timeless. For those craving solitude, inspiration, or just a break from busy highways, FM 170 delivers an experience that lingers long after the drive is done.
More than just a road, FM 170 represents what makes Big Bend so unforgettable—the sense of vastness, of nature untamed, and of freedom measured not in minutes but in miles. Whether you’re stopping for hikes in Big Bend Ranch State Park, watching the sun set from Big Hill, or simply rolling down the windows to let the desert wind in, River Road invites you to slow down and fully immerse yourself in the grandeur of the Chihuahuan Desert. For any serious Texas road tripper, it’s not just a detour—it’s a destination all its own.
